Why do we consider Ravi the king of the area’s kebab houses? Not just because it’s good—there are plenty of good kebab houses. But when we think of the Platonic ideal of kebabs—distinctive and assertive spicing, delicate exterior char, tender juiciness within— it’s Ravi that leaps to mind. Also because its accoutrements are better than most, probably because they don’t taste like accoutrements. The rice is always hot, light, and fluffy, the crunchy-chewy disks of naan are baked to order, and the chana masala, a slow-simmered stew of chickpeas, onions, and garlic, is a marvel—so good we’re almost tempted to bypass the meat altogether. Almost.
Also good: Seekh kebab; bone-in chicken kebab; lamb-brain karahi.