You smell it from the parking lot: the heady aroma of meat grilling over charcoal. That’s the first good sign at these chicken emporiums. The second is the line of customers—a happy sight when it comes to Peruvian rotisserie chicken, the ultimate in slow-cooked fast food; it means the chickens aren’t likely to sit for long in their warming trays.
The white meat is juicier than most dark meat, and you’re likely to spend much of your meal licking spices from your fingers. Good as the rotisserie is, the best thing here is a half chicken marinated with garlic and citrus, butterflied, then set atop a grill. Pollo Ever, it’s called. Our name for it: instant picnic.
Also good: Ceviche mixto; black beans; rice; fried yuca.