Tommy Marcos Ledo Restaurant (2420 University Blvd., Adelphi; 301-422-8122). You don’t come to Tommy Marcos Ledo Restaurant (the original Ledo Pizza) to hear a waitress extol the virtues of ingredients plucked fresh from the farm or to sample such exotica as a soft-shell-crab pie. You come to chow on gloriously unfussy fare. The wood-paneled room is past its prime, but the pizza remains one of the area’s best. Rectangular, not circular, topped with gobs of smoked provolone, and with a crust that calls to mind a thin pastry, this is not a pie for everyone, and pizza vets from New York, Philly, Jersey, or Chicago may look askance at it. Their loss. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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