Cuisine: The area’s best dim sum, presented by a team of hustling, cart-pushing servers. The regular menu has good moments, too—hearty casseroles, rich pork-and-seafood combos, full-bodied soups amid a roster of some 200 Hong Kong–style dishes—but the kitchen can be inconsistent. This spinoff of Janet Yu’s original Hollywood East, also in Wheaton, earns a place on this list for its stellar weekend brunch.

Mood: Doors open at 10:30 am on weekends, and by 11:30 or so there’s usually a wait. The banquet-style dining room takes on the excitement of a trading-room floor, with diners sneaking peaks at the bounty on nearby tables and hailing carts like cabbies at rush hour. By 2, the crowd thins, but usually the dumplings have been sitting, too.

Best for: Weekend brunch.

Best dishes: Among the dim sum, shrimp dumplings; noodles wrapped around crullers; pork buns; sharkfin; deep-fried shrimp-stuffed hot peppers; custard doughnuts fashioned into carrots. On the regular menu, a luscious steamed ling fish with ginger and scallions; salt-and-pepper shrimp; baby clams in black-bean sauce; pork-and-oyster casserole.

Insider tips: There’s dim sum during the week without the carts; you order à la carte, checking boxes on a slip of paper.

Service: •½

Open daily for lunch and dinner. Inexpensive.

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