From January 2003 100 Very Best Restaurants

Few restaurant venues are as interesting as eCitie. From the outside it looks like an airplane hangar. Inside it looks like a lively airplane hangar. There's plenty of space with 45-foot ceilings. To the left is one of the peppiest bar scenes in the area. To the right is a restaurant. The lower parts of the walls are covered with colorful fashion ads and photographs; higher are billboard-size Internet ads.

Good choices as starters are grilled calamari salad with cilantro, feta, and cucumber; a lump crabcake with corn garnish; a quesadilla filled with smoked duck, goat cheese, and roasted peppers, then topped with crème fraîche; tuna tartare with a soy-sake glaze; and a shrimp-and-lobster bisque.

Main courses to savor include veal piccata with lemon-butter sauce, fried-almond polenta, and capers; a smoked double pork chop over flageolet beans and peanut ragoût; veal meatballs laced with green olives, doused with lavender veal jus, and perched on house-made pappardelle; and veal forestière, a veal cutlet with wild mushrooms, wine sauce, and a delicious dried-plum polenta. Just about any dessert provides a fitting conclusion. The wine list is good, but it does not give most vintages.