Cuisine: The name alludes to owner/chef Pedro Matamoros’s Nicaraguan roots, but don’t go looking for upmarket renditions of classic Central American fare—this is modern eclectic cooking. Regional dishes, both traditional and reconstructed, have depth of flavor without weight. The house-made charcuterie is excellent, and seafood is tenderly prepared and fresh.

Mood: A neighborhood hangout at once smart-looking and casual.

Best for: Casual dates with better-than-casual fare; nice but affordable business lunches; after-hours nibbling; Sunday brunch.

Best dishes: Sea scallops with squid-ink pasta; seafood-chicken andouille “gumbo” with rockfish and sweet mussels; rockfish with snow peas and porcini vinaigrette; fried chicken livers; house-made gnocchi with wild-mushroom-asparagus ragoût in Parmesan cream; tagliatelle with ground-rabbit sauce (the grilled-veggie version is richer).

Insider tips: Appetizers and salads are among the best bets—they rarely hit the $10 mark—and the bar menu is available until 10:30 or 11 pm. The Monday-night three-course prix fixe for $30 is a good way to start the week.

Service: ••½

Open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner. Moderate.

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