Cuisine: The Modern Italian menu brings hearty pastas and braised meats in winter, zucchini carpaccio and whole branzino in spring, and an occasional excursion into Spain, including an egg-and-potato tortilla and a splash here and there of romesco sauce.

Mood: Euro-mod touches such as orange chairs and amorphous white light fixtures give the room the feel of a Scandinavian cafe.

Best for: Grazers and happy-hour revelers who can nibble on salumi and formaggi; a casual dinner.

Best dishes: Arancini—hot, crispy balls of cheesy risotto studded with wild mushrooms; penne all’arrabbiata with shavings of Parmesan; truffled fontina mac and cheese topped with buttered bread crumbs; braised pork shank with herbs and mustard; beet ravioli with pine nuts and butter; Meyer-lemon panna cotta; brandied-cherry bread pudding.

Insider tips: Pasta servings are modest, more Italian than Italian-American, so you might want to supplement your meal with antipasti.

Service: ••

Open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner. Expensive.

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