Edoya's big menu touches (and expands) on every Japanese food trend to hit the United States: sushi and soba, tempura and teriyaki, plus that '70s throwback, teppanyaki, with meats, seafood, and vegetables artfully sliced and grilled before your eyes at a cooking table. A tangle of construction has obscured Edoya's entrance, so you might have to do a little searching, but it'll probably be worth the effort. If it's sushi you're after, go for surf clam or a quail-egg roll with caviar or stick with a simple salmon-skin hand roll. One of the funkier new-wave combos is Vegas roll, made with eel, surimi, avocado, and cream cheese. Sauces are intense, so it's no surprise that teriyaki plates are nicely done. So is the frying for both tempura and katsu-style dishes. Even the teppanyaki stir-fries of filet mignon, New York strip, chicken, shrimp, and assorted vegetables inspire nostalgia for the Benihana days. About the only things that disappoint are flavorless dumplings (gyoza) and the watery iceberg salad that comes with most meals.