Why go: Former Colorado Kitchen chef Gillian Clark makes a comeback at this blue-painted cafe. Shortcut-free cooking with a Donna Reed–meets–Julia Child bent is her specialty (there are several casseroles and pies on any given day), but she also throws in such surprises as fried-fish tacos and an elegant scallop gratin.

What to get: Buttermilk-dipped fried chicken, terrific right out of the skillet and also good cold the next day; a sharp mac and cheese with cornbread crumbles as well as a more decadent casserole with Arborio rice and Gruyère; a superb Wagyu hot dog; beef chili with melted cheddar; bacony collards; lemon chess pie.

Best for: A casual dinner that doesn’t pay attention to calories; takeout; a pie craving.

Insider tip: If you have your heart set on a particular dish, go early—the kitchen is apt to run out of things. And although the place finally got a liquor license, it also has one of the most interesting soda selections around.

Open Tuesday through Friday for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Saturday for dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner.

>> See all 2009 Cheap Eats restaurants here