Why go: This offshoot of the Thai dining room Duangrat’s is both more relaxed and more consistent than its sibling. The kitchen is at its best when it goes off the pad-Thai track and turns out rustic, gutsy curries and stir-fries.

What to get: “Dumplings” of hollowed-out lychee bulbs filled with caramelized pork; galangal-scented chicken soup; shrimp-and-pork dumplings; fried-catfish salad with chili and lime; roast pork in a fiery red curry; grilled half chicken infused with smoke and lemongrass; coconut-tapioca pudding.

Best for: Family-style dinners.

Insider tip: If you’re sensitive to MSG, tell your server and the kitchen will leave it out.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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