From June 2005 Cheap Eats

With its boho-chic look, zippy menu of regional Indian delicacies, and exotic India-inspired martinis, this cafe has a huge under-thirty following. But families like the place, too. It's noisy enough and casual enough to accommodate a squirmy toddler. Outdoor tables alongside a man-made lake stocked with geese make it a great warm-weather find. Tops on the starters roster are petite dosas filled with chicken or potatoes; shrimp with ginger sauce and fried cilantro; and house-made cheese layered with mint paste.

Memorable main courses include Goan fish curry made with tilapia; lamb with coconut and chilies; and chicken chettinad perfumed with curry leaves and mustard seed. Though the biryanis taste more Western than Indian, they are sprightly jumbles nevertheless. Mango martinis and traditional lassis cool things down nicely. For dessert, try one of the area's better renditions of gulab jamun, crunchy cheese fritters in sugar syrup.