From November 2005

Neon wall sculptures cast an otherworldly glow in this serene dining room. But the kitchen is feisty when it counts. For coolness and heat, tangy and sweet, go for a Thai "salad"--Northern pork with minced pork, ginger, and peanuts, or twice-cooked duck moistened with shrimp paste (both get the double whammy of red onions and scallions). Crispy whole fish--recently, pristine flounder--with chili, garlic, and tamarind sauce also juxtaposes sweet and spicy.

Red, green, and country curries have flavor and fire. But chili power isn't everything. Earthy duck rolls, eggplant with basil and black-bean sauce, and squid with white pepper are marvelous, too. Stir-fries let you choose seasonings and meat, poultry, or seafood. If you seek familiar fare, the excellent pad Thai--studded with egg, chicken, and shrimp--will more than satisfy.