August 2004 "Best of Falls Church"

This fine Chinese restaurant was closed for remodeling, and when it reopened, its fans were delighted to find it as good as ever. Now another uncertainty looms: The restaurant has new owners. The first several months have seen no change in the quality of the cooking.

Some dishes at Full Kee are so good that it's hard to visit there without ordering them. One is the Hong Kong style shrimp-dumpling soup--thin wrappers packed with shrimp and floating in a bowl of rich broth. A bowl is plenty for a light meal, but it's also almost impossible not to order the oyster casserole with ginger and scallions. Other good dishes include clams in black-bean sauce, snow-pea leaves stir-fried with garlic, chicken-and-eggplant casserole, and tofu stuffed with shrimp.