From June 2005 Cheap Eats

This place is on the mezzanine of an office building, and it is a celebration place for many in the Chinese-American community. Before you head to China Garden for a Sunday dinner, call to see if a wedding party has preempted the premises. On other evenings, one Chinese society or another may have a dinner, so you might find yourself watching a dragon display along with the society's members.

Go to China Garden for dinner or weekend dim sum, not weekday lunch, when the food is good but not special. Saturday and Sunday mornings at 11:30, a first-rate Cantonese dim sum draws crowds of Chinese and others. In the evenings there's an ambitious menu. Try stir-fried clams with hot chilies and black-bean sauce; fresh crab with ginger and scallions; pan-fried whole flounder; steamed rockfish with ginger and scallions; whole roast squab Cantonese style; king-do pork spareribs, which are really small pork chops; and sizzling chicken with eggplant in a casserole.