At this Modern American dining room, starters have included seared sea scallops, perfectly cooked and served with pea risotto, fresh chanterelles, and a truffle vinaigrette. Steamed mussels are delicious in their garlic herb broth. Fried calamari were a bit tough, but the accompanying lemon aïoli was a nice alternative to the usual tomato dipping sauce.

The kitchen will serve half orders of pasta as a first course--the linguine with peas, cream, and soppresatta was very good. Main courses have been a bit less dependable--a too-sweet maple-brined pork chop with peaches; overcooked cod with a delicious brandade of salt cod; a good roast duck breast with confit; and a tough grilled New York strip. The best dessert was a fresh cherry financier with whipped crème fraîche.

Service at a restaurant with these ambitions and prices should rise above the "Now, who had the cod?" level.