From January 2005 100 Very Best Restaurants

It's not fancy and it's not cheap, but if crab is your passion, this is the place. Crab bisque, cream of crab soup, crab balls, crabcakes, and the trademarked Crab Bomb are all here. And though owner Jerry--who began in the biz selling freshly shucked oysters out of his '68 Chevy a few decades ago--has sold the place to his nephew and an employee, the food is as satisfying as ever.

Rule one: Order crab. Cream of crab soup has a hit of heat, while the bisque is James Bond smooth with a spritz of sherry. Then go for a crabcake, with meat picked from jumbo crabs--you can have it fried or baked--or the ten-ounce Crab Bomb made with only the biggest lumps of crab, seasoned with Old Bay and a bit of mayo, and baked golden brown. A six-ounce Baby Bomb can also be had. Sides like wedge-cut fries, mayonnaisey slaw from a family recipe, and stewed tomatoes are better than you find at most crabhouses.

Jerry's is a bit spiffier than most crabhouses, too. And it's jammed on weekends--people actually brag about how long they've waited. But once you're at a table in the big boisterous dining room done up with trophy fish and a colorful new mural, the crab feast begins.