September 2004 Best of Silver Spring

The outdoor Palm Patio invites dining under the stars and to the sounds of Latin and reggae bands and jazz combos. Inside are the lair-like Martini Bar and VIP Lounge and on the lower level a somewhat more sedate dining room/supper club with faux trees giving the place a junglelike feel.

There is nothing daunting about the West African-Caribbean menu of hits like curried chicken and goat; thyme-scented red snapper; rice and red beans with a choice of chicken, fish, or meats like oxtail and goat; and pan-fried catfish with yam fries. Main-course soups include Egusi, made with ground melon seeds and known for its distinctive sweet aftertaste, and the Nigerian Ogbono, named for the seeds that flavor this tripey brew. Joloff rice, West Africa's take on fried rice with onions and tomatoes, works as an entrée or a side. Even better is the delicately flavored rice cooked in coconut milk--have it with jerk chicken wings for a light meal. Downstairs gets livelier later in the evening when a DJ starts spinning international pop.

Izora, 1115 East-West Hwy.; 301-495-2960. Open daily for lunch and dinner.