June 2005

The name of this restaurant? It's the third--and therefore lucky--Chinese restaurant to open at the site, following Fortune and Maxim's. And patrons can choose among three dining options--the long dinner menu, the elaborate weekend dim sum service on rolling carts, and the very impressive luncheon buffet on weekdays. The food and prices are exemplary. The proprietors also own the award-winning New Fortune in Gaithersburg.

The weekday luncheon buffet offers the likes of shrimp in the shell, hard-shelled crabs, clams in black-bean sauce, and several varieties of freshly made dim sum along with a number of noodle dishes, stir-fried meats, and vegetables. It's a good idea to arrive early--not all of the special dishes are replenished. The weekend Cantonese dim sum is one of the best around, and it's no secret--despite the huge size of the restaurant, you may find yourself waiting at prime time. The regular dinner menu is large--as are the portions. Recent experiences included a hot pot of minced pork and eggplant in a hot sauce, whole steamed fish in brown sauce, and baby beef ribs with black pepper.