From January 2006 100 Very Best Restaurants

THE SCENE. Jacket and tie are not recommended--they're required. At no other restaurant in the city will you find such a policy, and that's part of the appeal of Buzz Beler's K Street haunt, a time capsule of a place with tuxedoed waiters, Erté prints, and a Lucite baby grand piano. Make that a well-preserved time capsule: Few restaurants are more consistent. Or, to put it another way: Yes, the prime rib still justifies the name out front.

WHAT YOU'LL LOVE. The staff will make you feel like you're celebrating a special occasion even if you're not. And things seldom, if ever, change.

WHAT YOU WON'T. Things seldom, if ever, change.