From January 2005 100 Very Best Restaurants

This fine Provincial French restaurant celebrated its 30th anniversary last year and shows no signs of slowing down. Its dining room is one of the area's most comfortable and romantic. Service by the experienced staff is conscientious. After a few recent turnovers, La Bergerie has settled on chef Vincent Damman, whose experience includes years in France and at the award-winning Les Folies Brasserie in Annapolis.

The cooking is neither bound by tradition nor over the cutting edge of modernity. Standout appetizers are a lobster ravioli with a lobster-and-tarragon sauce, and snails with butter, tomatoes, garlic, parsley, and hazelnuts. Main courses include Dover sole wrapped in crispy potatoes with truffles and a Champagne sauce; duck leg confit; sweetbreads with a sauce of brandy and chanterelles; and sautéed calf's liver with shallots. At a November lunch the coq au vin was very good, with thigh as well as breast of chicken, lardons, mushrooms, and onions. A creative dessert is the poached pear stuffed with chocolate mousse on a bed of cream and crushed pistachios. Individual soufflés are always a good choice. The wine list is very good, and the wine service is up to the restaurant's standards.

Open Monday through Saturday for lunch, daily for dinner.