Decisions, decisions. You can avoid having to settle on just one fabulous plate from the roster of choices by ordering one of the rijsttafels, set meals in which lots of little dishes dabbed with curries, sautés, and vegetables, some spicy, some mild, come your way. The grandest of these is $58.99 for two and includes dessert and coffee or tea.

Look to the regular menu for starters like spicy-sweet lamb, beef, or chicken satays with steamed rice cakes and crisp fried shallots, or deep-fried corn cakes studded with shrimp to dip in peanut sauce. Among the livelier main courses: ayam bekakak, slices of chicken in a dragon-worthy red-chili coconut "gravy"; shrimp and vegetables in the milder, lighter kalio sauce; gado gado, a tofu-centric vegetarian take crunchy with green beans, and shrimp chips; and a stir-fry of egg noodles with chicken, shrimp, and beef. The look is Kon-Tiki meets Shogun (though the restaurant no longer serves sushi) with offbeat folk art such as animals carved from gnarly banyan roots.

Sabang, 2504 Ennalls Ave.; 301-942-7859. Atmosphere: Roomy and a bit more done up than other ethnic spots. Entrées: $5.50 to $12.95; risjsttafels (including a vegetarian version) start at $42 for two and include starters, main courses, and dessert and coffee. Bottom line: A fine alternative to the usual ethnic fare. Open daily for lunch and dinner.