June 2006 Dirt Cheap Eats

How is it that this local mini-chain, with two DC locations and one slated to open next year in Petworth, is wooing away the Starbucks crowd? The coffee's better--management crafts its own roasts from Baltimore's Java Journey--and so is the food.

The U Street shop, our favorite, is done up with spritely Gerber daisies and red-washed wooden booths and offers free wi-fi. It mirrors the neighborhood: There are dreadlocks and blond ponytails, Patagonia pullovers and pinstripe suits. Writers camp out in the tall chairs by the window with a slushy mocha, a laptop, and a set of earbuds. On a weekend night you might catch a round of spoken-word poetry.

Sandwiches, such as a pressed panino of grilled chicken, provolone, and curried mayo, are perfectly serviceable. Better still are salads like a creamy, pepper-flecked Caesar. Breakfast, served all day, is the best reason to settle in. The Daily Scramble--eggs with the likes of sun-dried tomatoes or smoky bacon--is piled onto thick-cut brioche. Frittatas change daily but always emerge with a coppery crust. Salmon cakes hint of Old Bay and pair well with a spoonful of grits. There are Belgian waffles with maple syrup and butter, bananas, or a mess of pecans. The fried chicken and waffles, though, are oddly disappointing. Get your salt fix from thick bacon, turkey sausage, or scrapple.