From January 2006 100 Very Best Restaurants

THE SCENE. World-bankers and Euro expats hunker down in the gold-leaf-and-brocade dining room for expense-account lunches and celebratory paellas. The tapas menu livens up the place in mid-afternoon.

WHAT YOU'LL LOVE. The antique charm of the place--absolutely untouched by the Ferran Adria strain of modernist Spanish cuisine--is matched by lovely renditions of traditional Spanish and continental pleasures. And even if you're just ordering a wine by the glass, the staff brings the bottle to the table for your inspection.

WHAT YOU WON'T. Some will find the decor--and the formal service--fusty. And the kitchen's missteps are harder to forgive given the prices of many dishes.