January 2005
A new restaurant with an Old World feel--Majolica pottery on the walls, wrought-iron accents--Sol de España smacks of authenticity. There's nothing trendy about the place, just the kind of good food you'd find in Spain. From the specials menu, start with an appetizer of quail eggs cooked with tomatoes, sweet red peppers, and Spanish sausage. Nibble on a codfish croquette or fresh fried sardines. Also among the specials are showier main courses like roast suckling pig; goat baked with garlic, white wine, and red peppers; pork tenderloin with Oloroso sherry; and the firm-fleshed Mediterranean dorade with onions and potatoes.
From the regular menu try clams in green sauce; baked mussels with bread crumbs and garlic; shrimp with brandy; and veal with mushrooms and sweet sherry. If you have the time--it takes about 45 minutes to cook--whole snapper baked in rock salt is fabulous.
Spanish wines dominate the wine list, which means you can get a decent bottle without digging too deep in the wallet. Desserts range from the traditional manchego with Membrillo jelly to orange bread pudding to a lineup of cakes that sound ordinary but taste very Spanish.
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