November 2005

The noodle is king at this Hong Kong/Cantonese eatery: in noodle soups bobbing with wontons and bits of pork and duck; in Cantonese-style chow mein; and in family-size plates of wide chow foon with seafood or other goodies.

Other regions of the menu are worth exploring, namely the roast meats (duck, pork, and soy-sauce chicken) and casseroles--brisket with turnip is an earthy combo. For a restorative late-night repast, try the congee, a pablumlike rice gruel with a handful of ginger or some other tidbit for flavor.

Paul Kee, 11305-B Georgia Ave.; 301-933-6886. Atmosphere: Cozy with a Chinatown vibe, right down to the sometimes brusque waitstaff. Bottom line: Another good spot for Hong Kong/Cantonese cooking. Open until 1 am Sunday through Thursday and 2 am Friday and Saturday.