The decor is unassuming compared with other Thai eateries, but the welcome is warm and the cooking true at this family-run stalwart. The big menu might momentarily flummox some diners, but there are so many fine dishes it's hard to go wrong. Pad Thai is one of the best versions in the area. Salads go beyond the familiar Thai combos to a noteworthy creation with smoky grilled mussels and another with Chinese sausage, cucumbers, and onion in a tart limey brew.

Steamed whole flounder shines with its sauce of sweet plum and ginger root, and whole fried fish with chili sauce is flaky and flavorful. Tender Asian eggplant perfumed with Thai basil goes well with the fish dishes. And meat lovers will find spicy charcoal beef with toasted rice a welcome alternative to T-bone.

Suporn's, 2302 Price Ave., Wheaton; 301-946-7613. Closed Monday.