January 2006 100 Very Best

THE SCENE. Chefs come and go at this casual, spirited Dupont Circle seafood restaurant, but the place never seems to break stride, thanks to owner Regine Palladin's watchful eye and unwavering devotion to serving good, fresh fish.

WHAT YOU'LL LOVE. The menu, handwritten on giant blackboards hauled to the table when you're ready to order, changes daily, and the kitchen pays attention to the markets and seasons--in spring, an appetizer portion of that disappearing delicacy shad roe, pan-fried and simply sauced. The wine list, though small, is strong on moderately priced whites perfectly suited to the cooking.

WHAT YOU WON'T. The no-reservations policy is challenging on a busy Friday or Saturday night.

BEST DISHES. Simple starters--a plate of olives and anchovies; octopus braised in red wine with a white-bean purée; a delicious salad of smoked trout with Gorgonzola dressing; one of the best brandades in the city; a perfectly roasted whole dorade; a hearty mahi-mahi with braised cabbage and mustard sauce; sautéed clams with spicy chorizo.