The fusion-inspired cream-of-crab soup spiked with lemongrass, a frequent special, goes down like velvet, familiar yet with the thrill of discovery. And even when the soup's not on, Yin Yankee is well worth the trip. Shades of red and yellow suffuse the dining room with warmth, while a fish tank and a shimmering wall of water cool things off. Sushi offerings start with the usual rolls, sashimi, and nigiri. Seaweed salad with conch, baby tako, or ika sansai is a mix of crunch and briny flavor. More unusual is carpaccio of tuna and salmon, and creative combos are inventive indeed: Try the crunchy lobster roll or go exotic with tuna and cashew.
If sushi's not your thing, no problem. Try whole fish roasted in banana leaves; tea-smoked duck with scallion pancakes; the house bouillabaisse, a coconut-infused tomatoey brew; and, best of all, Crabchop, a lumpy crusted crabcake on a stick with wasabi mayo. The drinks list includes boutique sakes, wine, and a well-put-together beer lineup: Javer from Germany, Otter Creek Copper Ale from Vermont, and Mardesous from Belgium.
Yin Yankee Cafe, 105 Main St., Annapolis; 410-268-8703; yinyankee.com. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
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