There have been changes at this much-loved Lebanese restaurant over the years, but they occur at a comfortably slow pace. A recent visit found Helen Thomas still in her favorite booth with a group of friends, the hospitality just as warm, and the food just as good and inexpensive. Start with hummus--the version with ground lamb and pine nuts is delicious--baba ghanoush, or lebnah, a creamy cheese made from strained yogurt.

Lots of choices follow: a flavorful Middle Eastern variety of squash stuffed with ground lamb; grape leaves stuffed with a flavorful mixture of rice, tomatoes, herbs, and spices; kebabs of lamb, chicken, or ground beef; a tender, long-cooked lamb shank; and musakan, a half chicken baked with onions, pine nuts, and sumac. The wine list offers a good selection of drinkable and inexpensive Lebanese wines.