From January 2006 100 Very Best Restaurants

THE SCENE. Yes, the strip-mall setting is unprepossessing, and yes, the small dining room isn't much to look at, but fans of Belgian food and beer are devoted to Bernard Dehaene's place--as well they should be. Such simple pleasures as these are hard to come by.

WHAT YOU'LL LOVE. Hearty Belgian cooking--with more than 55 Belgian beers to choose from--in a casual atmosphere.

WHAT YOU WON'T. The tables are close together, so if the couple next to you is having a bad date, you're going to hear about it. And brace yourself for the occasional lengthy, unexplained lapse in service.