From January 2006 100 Very Best Restaurants

THE SCENE. Greek goes contemporary at this Dupont Circle bistro, a destination for fans of Aegean fare and an intimate, casual, white-tablecloth place for locals. No Zorbaesque kitsch here--the sailor-suited waitstaff notwithstanding.

WHAT YOU'LL LOVE. The regional ouzos and lengthy list of well-priced Greek wines and the forward-thinking Greek cooking are panacea to anyone who's had one dreary gyro too many.

WHAT YOU WON'T. Market prices for whole fish can be high, so be sure to ask.