From June 2006 Cheap Eats

Thanks to a renovation, a real dining room has been added to this popular carryout, and wine and beer are now available. But lest you think Urban has gone upscale, the menu is the same--an irreverent ode to barbecue with jokey junk-food concoctions like Buried Corn Dogs and Redneck Fondue.

For the best barbecue, go for pork--a slab of beautifully crusted ribs redolent of applewood and hickory or pulled pork on a bun. A splash of Yella, a sauce of brown sugar and mustard tart with lemon juice, or the even more assertive Carolina, a brew of vinegar and hot peppers, enhances the smoky thrill. Chicken and brisket are less exciting.

DonÕt be too 'cue-centric: Urban makes a juicy burger with applewood bacon, cheddar, and jack, and that same bacon does a whopping BLT proud--the secret's in the thick slices of Texas toast. Most of the sides are superfluous, but don't miss the potato salad, whose mayonnaisey glory screams picnic.

Redneck Fondue, a cheese-and-chili concoction with tortilla-chip dippers, or Buried Corn Dogs (they're buried in the fondue) are sure to bring out anyone's inner child. Urban Legend is a pig-laden take on seven-layer dip--a heaping pile of brisket, sausage, and barbecue beans on a raft of Fritos.