No. 32: Farrah Olivia

What was Morou Ouattara—the Ivory Coast–born chef known for such whimsies as foie gras ice cream—doing at Signatures, the stuffy Pennsylvania Avenue power den? Even before owner Jack Abramoff’s lobbying scandal caused it to close, it was an odd match—Lyle Lovett/Julia Roberts odd.

Now Ouattara is back with a place that’s more intimate and personal, a small, comfortable dining room decorated with subtle giraffe prints, wall paintings that evoke the African bush, and framed black-and-white photos of his two-year-old daughter. He’s as creative as ever, constantly looking for new ways to deconstruct and surprise. “What in the world is that?” is something you’ll likely hear when a rare chop of lamb embellished with clear, caviar-like pearls arrives. Pop one in your mouth and it dissolves into spearmint jelly. “Shocked” tuna comes with a cute play on sushi garnishes. Seared scallops show up with two piles of powder, one white, one brown. It’s pulverized bacon—the white is the fat, the brown is the meat.

It might all seem like playing with food if it weren’t so delicious. And not everything’s about cleverness: The confidently spiced soups and vegetable stews and sautées are sometimes the best thing about a dish.

The place is new, and it’s not perfect. The young waitstaff isn’t equipped to answer the inevitable questions about the food, wine pours are chintzy, and the list needs an overhaul. But it’s exciting to see this talented chef get a room of his own.