El Pike (Pike Pizza)

Address: 4111 Columbia Pike, Falls Church, VA 22044

Phone: 703-521-3010

Neighborhood: Falls Church

Cuisines: South American

Opening Hours: Monday through Wednesday 8:30 to 11, Thursday through Sunday 8:30 to 2.

Price Range: Inexpensive

Dress: Informal

Noise Level: Chatty

Reservations: Not Needed

Best Dishes Chicken or beef saltenas; huminitas; sopa de mani; lomo.

Price Details: Appetizers $1.35 to $6.95; entrées $5.15 to $11.50

Videos of gyrating women in sequined G-strings fill the overhead TV, but don’t let that fool you: This is a family joint, Bolivian-style, with old men at the counter reading Spanish-language newspapers and little kids playing between tables.

The sign outside reads pike pizza, but the only pies here are salteñas, sweet-spicy meat pastries eaten for breakfast or lunch. Grainy humitas (corn pudding steamed in the husk) are a terrific alternative at night. Spice-rubbed beef called laping chews like jerky and will appeal to diners who like a little gaminess. Cumin-fried pork chops are perfectly matched with a crisp Bolivian Pacena beer.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.