Thai restaurants often employ vibrant color palettes, swathing themselves in purple, orange, and green. This slip of a place aims instead at the palate, sending out dishes of surprising depth and brightness. A red curry is so precisely rendered that the lushness of its coconut milk dulls neither the heat nor the tang. Pad kaprow is a perfectly balanced combination of thin-sliced chicken and fried basil leaves.
The menu might lack the range and flair that the best Thai places possess, but the kitchen executes dishes with rare precision--witness the wonton soup, made with house-made chicken stock; the delicate curry puffs; and the bikini shrimp fried in spring-roll wrappers.
Also good: Roti kanai, a buttery pancake with yellow-curry chicken; larb gai, a salad of ground chicken, lime, red onion, and fish sauce; fried Siam salmon with spicy Thai-basil sauce; spicy catfish; aromatic red Jungle Curry.
Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for dinner.
