Given that most regard his restaurant as a takeout joint and that the “dining room” consists only of a table and four stools, owner Gary McNaughton is surprisingly fastidious about details. One afternoon, he was seen hauling in boxes of wild salmon, and his soups are often brimming with touches such as sprigs of thyme.
Jamaican cooking is rife in this area, but seldom is it done with such knowledge and care. The goat curry is a rich brew redolent of allspice and clove, with hunks of meat that shred easily with a plastic fork. McNaughton’s house-made drinks are superior to the competition’s treacly concoctions—our pick is the cucumber, zingy with ginger and a fine foil for all that spice.
Also good: Brown stew fish; escoveiche, a grilled whole fish topped with pickled peppers and onions.