Food

Cheap Eats 2012: Tortacos

Cheap Eats 2012

The decor, or lack thereof, doesn’t inspire sticking around,
but the danger of ordering takeout from this tiny strip-mall spot is that
you might miss the fixings bar—a Shangri-la of toppings including limes,
lettuce, radishes, cilantro, pico de gallo, salsas, and other
condiments for decorating the silver-dollar-size corn-tortilla tacos.
Fresh guacamole augments tender chunks of steak asado and juicy
chicken tacos, while a little pico de gallo and lime taste great
with spice-rubbed carnitas.

Also good: Lengua (braised beef
tongue) tacos; tacos al pastor; sopes—rounds of fried tortilla
lightly grilled and piled with refried beans, lettuce, sour cream, and
queso blanco.

Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.