Compressed watermelon salads and bacon lollipops seem a world away at this tradition-loving restaurant, where the most eye-popping design element is a wall panel of Chinese-red fabric. At the helm is Ris Lacoste, who came up under superchef Bob Kinkead and won accolades during her ten-year stint heading 1789 in Georgetown. She excels at feel-good food—thick-cut meatloaf, a standout onion soup—but there are new classics, such as the “scallop margarita” she invented in the ’90s, still the star of the menu. This might not be the most innovative place in town, but that’s refreshing.
Don’t miss: Mussels with chorizo; ricotta gnudi; cheeseburger; sole meunière.
For a full review of Ris, click here.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
