Unlike many to-go operations in bustling Clarendon, the tiny takeout behind the Liberty Tavern has a couple of parking spaces dedicated to carryout customers. But the draw is the inventive fare from chef Liam LaCivita’s kitchen. Salads are a high point—apple-and-frisée with spicy pecans, Great Hill bleu cheese, smoked bacon, and buttermilk dressing or duck confit with fennel and cress and lemon-pomegranate marmalade (both $9). Starters such as crisp pork belly au poivre ($10) and roasted mussels in smoked-tomato broth ($8 for one serving, $14 for two) could double as entrées.
Ample portions make many of the main courses sharable: house-made maccheroni with short-rib gravy ($9 small, $18 large); half an Amish chicken with carmelized-onion gravy, mashed potatoes, and rapini ($20); pork shank with cheddar grits and horseradish jus ($21). Add a side such as sautéed greens of the day or roasted-squash purée ($4 each) and you’re set. Or you can go the pizza route. The Vermont ($14) is a work of art with Cabot white cheddar, prosciutto, Granny Smith apples, sage, and caramelized onions.
See More Great Takeout Reviews
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
