Green Papaya
An upscale take on traditional Vietnamese.
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Cynthia Hacinli
Comments () | Published October 16, 2006
Green Papaya
Address: 4922 Elm St., Bethesda, MD 20814
Phone: 301-654-8956
Neighborhood: Bethesda/Glen Echo
Cuisines: Vietnamese
Opening Hours: Monday 11:30 to 2 and 5 to 9:30; Tuesday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30 and 5 to 10; Sat 12:30 to 10; Sunday 12:30 to 9:30.
Nearby Metro Stops: Bethesda
Price Range: Moderate
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Baby clams with sesame crackers; caramel-black-pepper pork loin; rack of lamb with lemongrass; prawns with eggplant and green beans in curry; beef wrapped in vine leaves; fried quail; lemongrass duck breast; lemongrass shrimp bun; banana flambe; iced coff

From January 2005 100 Very Best Restaurants

A wall of water soothes the psyche at this stylish Vietnamese restaurant that marries tradition with invention. Diners in search of something new should go to the specials menu for items like Hen Xuc Banh Da, sautéed baby clams with black-sesame crackers; caramel black-pepper pork loin; and rack of lamb with lemongrass. There's also a well-rounded roster of classic dishes like Bo La Nho, beef wrapped in vine leaves and charbroiled, and golden fried quail with black-pepper sauce, which make for fine beginnings.

Among the popular caramelized items is a lemongrass duck-breast version. More familiar main courses like bun--rice vermicelli with a variety of meat and seafood toppings--are nicely done, especially one with shrimp in lemongrass sauce. For dessert, banana flambé with ginger ice cream is a great take on the banana split. Along with traditional Vietnamese drinks like iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk and fresh lemonade and lemon soda, there's a short beer and wine list.
Subscribe to Washingtonian
Posted at 08:04 PM/ET, 10/16/2006 RSS | Print | Permalink | Restaurant Reviews