A place that feels like a neighborhood restaurant but has the soul and ambition of something greater.
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Cynthia Hacinli
Comments () | Published October 17, 2006
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Address: 1509 17th St. NW, Washington, DC 20009
Phone: 202-332-9200
Neighborhood: Dupont Circle, Downtown
Cuisines: Modern, Greek/Mediterranean, American
Opening Hours: Tuesday through Saturday for dinner.
Nearby Metro Stops: Dupont Circle
Price Range: Very expensive
Noise Level: Intimate
Reservations: Required
Best Dishes Mascarpone-stuffed dates; scallop with truffle emulsion and black truffles; spaghetti with sea urchin; roast suckling pig; baby goat; lamb neck
Price Details: Dinner menu, $135 per person.


THE SCENE. This straw-color sliver of a dining room, presided over by a team of smart, shaggy-haired twentysomethings, has the feel of a neighborhood restaurant and the soul and ambition of something much greater. Each night--later rather than earlier--foodies settle in for some of the city's most exciting cooking.

WHAT YOU'LL LOVE. Komi doesn't offer the latest cut of Wagyu beef, and it hasn't hired a publicist. Chef/owner Johnny Monis wins fans by finding beautiful ingredients and using them in simple--but not simple-minded--ways. Each dish on the Greek-inflected menu turns up a carefully orchestrated surprise. Mascarpone-stuffed dates hide a precise few grains of sea salt; tzatziki is lifted above the ordinary by the addition of white-truffle paste and beets.

WHAT YOU WON'T. The dining room can get noisy. Prices are creeping up.

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Posted at 03:35 PM/ET, 10/17/2006 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews