This Adams Morgan restaurant made one of the most striking debuts of the year, riding the brilliance of chef Cedric Maupillier, who brought Gallic rigor and a spunky imagination to owner Saied Azali’s hipster-farmhouse concept. Maupillier’s brunch lineup is less experimental, but his clean execution is still evident, whether he’s turning out a bountiful smoked-fish platter or an Alsatian flammekueche (a bacon-and-onion-strewn flatbread) or a fluffy Belgian waffle. The chef’s biggest reach—a croissant larded with ham, eggs, bacon, cheese, roast pork, and pickled onions—feels like a dare to make it to dinner without a nap. Saturday and Sunday 10:30 to 2:30.







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