Details

Passage to India

4931 Cordell Ave.
Bethesda, MD 20814

301-656-3373

Neighborhood: Bethesda/Glen Echo

Cuisines: Vegetarian/Vegan, Indian

Opening Hours:
Daily for lunch and dinner.

Nearby Metro Stops: Bethesda

Price Range: Moderate

Dress: Informal

Noise Level: Intimate

Reservations: Recommended

Website: http://www.passagetoindia.info

Best Dishes:
Sev-murmura chaat; samosa with chickpeas and yogurt; lamb cooked in the tandoor oven; shrimp in coconut curry; pickle plate; fresh mango with yogurt.

The Needle: Passage to India

At its best, Sudhir Seth’s Indian dining room in Bethesda is a celebration of the sophistication and variety of the subcontinent’s regional cuisines as well as a reminder that well-spiced cooking need not be scorching to be rewarding. But a recent meal showed the place operating below that ideal, with thin curries, tougher-than-usual meats, and muted saucing. The notable exception: the excellent pickle plate, a vivid display of what this veteran kitchen is capable of.

This article appeared in the April, 2010 issue of The Washingtonian.