Cheap Eats 2011: Vit Goel ToFu (Lighthouse Tofu) - Rockville

It's a dizzying scene at these two tofu-focused restaurants, where the wallpaper recalls a Korean newspaper and servers scurry around with bubbling cauldrons of a soup known as soondubu. Anchored by a vivid red-pepper broth and soft, almost melting blocks of tofu, the hot liquid can be dressed in a variety of ways: with oysters, beef, vegetables, or a raw egg (wait a minute or so until the soup cools a little before you drop it in), all meant to thicken the broth. There are five spice levels for the soondubu--medium is about right for the average diner.

While the soondubu is the star of the menu, there are other gems. The selection of pa jun--egg-and-scallion pancakes with seafood, kimchee, or vegetables--make for good additions to the table.

A big perk to a meal here: It's as healthy as spa food but more satisfying.

Also good: Fried dumplings; bulgogi, thin-sliced beef in a soy marinade.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.