Cheap Eats 2012: Moroni & Brothers

The pizzas here aren’t designed to make you swoon over the owner’s ability to procure spectacular ingredients or educate you about the importance of provenance. They’re humble, served alongside a slate of Salvadoran specialties in a scruffy storefront with linoleum floors. But the wood-burning oven is testament to the fact that owners José and Reyna Velasquez—who learned their craft at Pizzeria Paradiso—are passionate about their pies.

The crusts are excellent canvases for the untrendy toppings—pepperoni, salami, potato—strewn liberally atop them. The Diavola (with jalapeños, sweet peppers, and sausage) and the Puttanesca (with garlic, anchovies, and chili flakes) deliver the simple satisfactions of chain pizzas but with more finesse. And more soul.

Also good: Moderna and Explosive pizzas; carne deshilada; pupusas.