Cheap Eats 2012: Plaka Grill

Peter Drosos, owner of this bright Greek cafe, spent time in Thessaloniki and Ioannina learning the finer points of gyro-making—and it shows. Though the drill is fast casual—you order at the counter—whimsical murals of Greek street scenes and a lineup of Greek wines, such as Gavala from Santorini, take the mood beyond that of a diner. Plaka’s blue-ribbon sandwich is the pork gyro—the meat is roasted on a vertical spit—with tomatoes, onions, tzatziki, and a handful of fries tucked into warm pita. Well-turned-out mezze, such as plumply stuffed grape leaves and airy taramasalataround things out along with more robust fare such as lemon rotisserie chicken and moussaka.

Also good: Lemony avgolemono soup; feta dip with hot and sweet peppers; loukaniko (sausage); chicken souvlaki.