Cheap Eats 2012: Gamasot

Glossy posters of specials—tureens of soup, platters of thin-sliced meats to barbecue, deep-fried pancakes—cover the walls of this Korean eatery like pop art. With all the come-ons, it may take a few minutes to realize that the specialty of the house is sul leung tang, a chalk-white soup made from long-cooked beef bones and served with rice noodles and slices of brisket. Another delicious brew is a bean-paste stew, thick with tofu and full of chili heat. And a hot pot of bibim bap brings together ribbons of seaweed, wood-ear mushrooms, beef, and egg over rice. Make the dish your own by mixing in a dash of chili oil and bits of panchan—the array of fermented vegetables that comes with your meal. It’s almost as much fun to tweak as it is to eat.

Also good: Mung-bean pancakes with pork and scallions; beef, pork, and vegetable dumplings; barbecue meats such as marinated short ribs and beef and spicy pork.