11301 Fern St.
Wheaton, MD 20902
Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 AM to 10 PM. Open Friday and Saturday 11:30 AM to 10:30 PM.
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Nearby Metro Stops: Wheaton
Price Range: Inexpensive
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Not Needed
Papaya salad; pad Thai; hot-and-sour squid; frittata of mussels with green curry; Floating Market Noodle Soup; drunken noodles
Starters, $5.95 to $6.95; main courses, $7.95 to $10.95.
Special Features: Wheelchair Accessible, Kid Friendly
Many Thai restaurants flag their spiciest dishes on the menu with one or more chili-pepper symbols. Heat is such a foundational element at this tavern-like dining room that pointing it out would be like asking a burger joint to tell you it uses meat. Most dishes wouldn’t exist without it, such as the Floating Market Noodle Soup, a sweet and tangy broth that lashes the tongue. An innocuous-looking salad of country-style pork with cilantro and pulverized rice ignites a series of small fires in the mouth. But heat isn’t the kitchen’s sole preoccupation. In the best dishes, spice, fragrance, and texture are braided into an often thrilling unity. Don’t miss: Larb gai, ground chicken with lime, onion, and chili; crispy mussels; pad Thai; drunken noodles; red curry with pork. Open: Daily for lunch and dinner. Inexpensive.