11407 Amherst Ave.
Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for dinner.
Price Range: Inexpensive
Reservations: Not Needed
Scallion dumplings; yum watercress; pad Thai; deep-fried whole fish (often sea bass); duck in red curry; sticky rice with mango.
Every couple of years, a Thai restaurant arrives to contend for the title of area’s best. Many shine bright for a year or two, dazzling with their blending of spice, lime, and herbs, then sputter and fade. Which makes us appreciate this mainstay, now in its 15th year, that much more.
It still excites—with delicate salads (the Yum Watercress—a lacy frittata of deep-fried watercress, shrimp, squid, onions, and cashews—is one of the great dishes in the area), vivid curries, and magnificent whole fried fish. Few Thai kitchens are as skilled in such a variety of preparations; there isn’t a weak category on the multi-page menu. Don’t miss: Fried-squid salad with cashews; larb (ground chicken with lime and shallots); mu ping (barbecue pork); crispy duck with basil and chilies; yellow curry with pork. Open: Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for dinner. Inexpensive.