100 Very Best Restaurants 2013: Vin 909 Winecafé

The charmingly restored bungalow that makes you think you’ve stolen away to a quaint seaside town is pretty wonderful, but it’s the area’s most exciting and consistently delicious pizzas that compel you to linger. ¶ Chef Justin Moore performs wonders with stretched dough. His crusts are canvases for ideas both sound (wild-boar meatballs and spicy soppresatta) and surprising (foie gras, figs, and Taleggio cheese). The small plates and cheeses are a worthy complement. Don’t miss: Crab rolls; poached shrimp with fennel rémoulade; house-made burrata; crab gumbo; Margherita pizza; butterscotch pudding; chocolate pot de crème. Open: Tuesday, Saturday, and Sunday for dinner, Wednesday through Friday for lunch and dinner. Moderate.